Domaine Faury, Côte-Rotie, Northern Rhône, France 2016

These wines have always inspired fascination: powerful yet fresh and ethereal, they feature never-ending aromas of eucalyptus, menthol, game, leather, violets, spice . . . an exotic, earthy bouquet expressed with subtlety and grace.

Sadly, these prized bottles have dwindled with each cork pulled, as traditionalist vignerons on the unforgiving Roasted Slope have proven elusive. Domaine Faury represents a rare exception, and I envision this Côte-Rôtie following a similar evolution to the wines I contemplate with nostalgia. Its depth on the palate, along with the already revealing perfume, suggests a Côte-Rôtie of the old school, to drink over the next decade and a half.